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Despite the inability to separate in a strict method, it can be said that there are two types of Berliner fashion houses: While the first group happens to be the more old-school ones that put their focus on tailoring and romanticism; the second group has always been inspired by the rave culture, diverse bodies and expressions. Looking at the examples of the first group, specifically Kilian Kerner Berlin and Danny Reinke (the ones we associate with the Creative Four) — it might be time for Berliner fashion to get rid of that separating line.
Through the AW25 collection called “Shitstorm”, Kilian Kerner Berlin interpreted the concept of hate spread in the digital world, yet this interpretation was quite progressive for Kerner by including deconstructed silhouettes. While power emerges as quite a crucial theme in the core of the collection; Kilian Kerner seemingly put a distance between conventional approaches and his design process. Instead, the designer went for a fusion between punk-rooted inspirations and Kerner’s signature that is full of glam; when reinventing a new definition of power.
Danny Reinke, on the other hand, was probably the most romantic designer of the previous SS25 season of the BFW — for those who want to revisit, Reinke’s runway-presented heart bag shot by arrows can be a useful reference. However, for the AW25 season, Reinke seemingly was in an indirect consensus with his fellow designer Kerner: Through the use of a quite seasonal palette, the designer mixed the punk inspirations from the 80s with classical Reinke glam and pearls — still, something stayed the same within the fashion house and doubtlessly, it was Danny Reinke’s incredible expertise in tailoring.
Another punk-inspired take came from the French designer Lou de Bétoly — previously, the brand had built an image full of pink, knitting, the romantic French heritage, and laces which probably would make one think that hyperfemininity being on-point for LDB. Yet the actual core of Lou de Bétoly was more than soft, hyperfeminine elements and the brand’s show this season had proved this in the most beautiful way: The dramatic luxury brand, using pre-owned materials as an ode to the sustainable perspective of Berliner fashion, came up with a lot more rebellious line than expected. Maintaining the brand’s style codes in an adaptive nature to the context; pink and laces were still there, but combined with a dark, bold, and statement-making take on it all.
Unapologetically Themselves
When all goes punk, the question emerges as if punk can be acknowledged as different, rebellious, and innovative anymore — Having a look at the brands of Berlin where avant-garde silhouettes, rebellion, and boundary-pushing applications are a part of their core identity, the question would lose its relevance immediately.
Starting from the Charli XCX-approved Berliner fashion brand Sia Arnika, it is a necessity to mention that the brand is an absolute expert in two significant things: Creative proportions and choosing colors. The Danish-born designer, for this season, once again proved the unique blend between her Nordic heritage and the Berlin rave scene by using these powers that Arnika holds. Following integrative techniques, including stimulating patterns, Arnika did not need an identity shift but instead highlighted the fact that her designs can be timeless and trendy at the same time — and surely, this is what makes Sia Arnika a trendsetter, instead of a follower.
Political as always, GmbH was another statement-making brand by staying true to its heritage — for this specific collection, Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik adopted a method as if they dive into an encyclopedic world and reviewed the roots of GmbH. Though being a lot more formal than we are used to witnessing, GmbH presented an unforgettable collection specifically by layering conventional masculinity with feminine-associated fur coats.
On the other side, sustainable faux-fur coats were an important element to emphasize being authentically “itself” for Lueder as well — the collection “The Shell” had reinvented a new-gen definition of masculinity, while destroying the elegance beautifully through genuine and out-of-the-box touches on garments.
Although there was no show planned by the brand during this season, it is impossible not to mention the iconic Namilia: Not only did the moto-cross feminine brand become a globally acknowledged, accessible luxury brand that reads and reviews Berlin’s cultural scene (with specific and successful references to sexuality) but it also contributed the city itself to be more visible in the global arena. Presented at Der Berliner Salon this year, “The Key To Success: Never Play the Part” was simply a revisit to the brand’s authentic identity through referencing the male-coded officewear that highlights the double standards towards women in public and private spaces.
As Namilia maintains its boundary-pushing identity and celebrates it through the use of vegan leather and brave forms; another boundary-pushing brand to mention would definitely be the first winner of Fashion Council Germany/VOGUE Fashion Fund, the one and only Kasia Kucharska.
Deriving from latex as the fundamental material; the innovative techniques Kucharska applied such as avoiding stitching, it could be claimed that the brand is empowered by the cultural codes of Berlin just as Namilia does, but reviews it in a quite new possibility that is full of colors. Ruffles! Liveliness! A reverence to the domination of boho style worldwide! Kasia Kucharska does not only read the dynamics of Berlin well but also knows how to integrate it all with the global zeitgeist of fashion.
Holding the power of being expressive, when it is the fashion in Berlin, the list goes long in being “unapologetically itself” for the brands — yet Avenir is another one not to forget. Unlike the previous references; Avenir is not defined by the boundary-pushing, avant-garde aesthetics but instead, by capturing the doubled lifestyle in Berlin: Sophia Claussen, the founder, portrays a very rare paradigm of being able to narrate Berlin’s non-rave, non-alternative but elegant side without finding herself in the Nordic fashion codes. However, her designs are not irrelevant to the stereotypical Berlin image as well — being the narrative of Berliner ladies and gentlemen (and more), Avenir is simply a blend of Charlottenburg, Mitte, and Friedrichshain by embracing its true vision.
THE TEXTURE MIXTURE
Another rising trend in Bundesstadt’s fashion codes can simply be defined as the contrast of textures — and here are some examples to observe: It probably would not be incorrect to declare SF10G as the number-one brand of Berliner fashion for the last two seasons.
Staying true to its subculture, indie-sleaze inspired DNA; SF1OG presented its collection for AW25 in the backstage of Berghain, and except for the ambiance that took over the viewers, we could tell that the texture games were a big thing for the collection. Following monochrome looks in general, SF1OG has indirectly (and with great success) referenced the ongoing global trend of focusing more on materials and shapes instead of colors and patterns.
Through the use of knitwear-latex fusion, Richert Beil had reaffirmed its one-of-a-kindness as well. The brand’s AW25 collection, named “Mutter”, was a direct confirmation of how designers Richert and Beil are more than fashion designers but great storytellers, too.
Interpreting the reality of overburdened “mothers” of the world, the brand’s probable biggest strength happens to be finding a source of inspiration in the most unique way. Reflecting the exact “Richert Beil” legacy, having diverse bodies on the runway in line with their elegant yet rebellious gusto had proved the texture game is not a game-builder, but an elevating touch on their incredible heritage.
WENT-VIRALS
Living in the age of social media, sometimes going viral can overshadow the vital details — and one thing about Berlin fashion is that it is usually quite suitable to go viral on TikTok, Instagram, and even Pinterest.
Just like Namilia went viral for the “In Loving Memory of My Sugar Daddy” collection on Fashion Twitter before, and Sia Arnika with its already-mentioned Charli XCX appearance; seemingly the turn for this season was for HADERLUMP and Maximilian Gedra.
HADERLUMP is quite a significant brand for Berlin’s fashion scene — remembering the brand’s previous show that took visitors on a flight, it is also one of the brands that are successful in staying loyal to their heritage. For this season, presenting the collection “SOLIVAGANT”, the brand went for the Schöneweide S-Bahn following their previous flight.
As an indirect ode to the time traveling, another texture game was seen at HADERLUMP as well: Specifically mixing wool and denim in the triangle of black, gray, and navy blue; HADERLUMP was HADERLUMP again. Even though it can emerge as a question in the future to ask if HADERLUMP will be able to maintain its momentum due to the silent shift into minimalism, TikTok already decided on behalf of it to stay.
The techno-head look with a stroller is already a source for memes, narrating an “ordinary Berliner father leaving the club on a Sunday morning” — and it confirms that HADERLUMP will maintain its momentum as a cultural reviewer at this point.
Another viral moment came from Maximilian Gedra — just like SF1OG, the designer chose Berghain as the spot to present his new collection. Avant-garde as ever, Gedra highlighted the modern world’s pressure on individuals and reverenced sustainability through the use of second-hand materials.
A journey between order and chaos, the viral moment came when Gedra played Lady Gaga’s latest single “Abracadabra” on the runway — but what made it viral was the reason behind it.
As Gaga wore a giant hat, designed by Maximilian Gedra, in the Abracadabra music video; it happened to be a reference to the popstar by the Berliner designer, signaling the journey of Berlin fashion towards global acknowledgment.
Including a variety of brilliant shows by brands like Kitschy Couture, Maria Chany, and PLNGNS; the list of creativity in the AW25 season of the Berlin Fashion Week goes beyond.
However; the main focus points can be summarized as a passionate return to punk, texture games in line with the global fashion setting, and embracing the authentic nature of Berlin in pure honesty — but most importantly, reconsolidating the power Berlin holds the best, the value of free expression.
As the city hosted another season of Fashion Week, what we can tell is that a lot more creative freedom is awaiting us in the future of Berliner Fashion.
