Kilian Kerner, on the other hand, revisited his signature bling-bling aesthetic. Some looks were drenched in sequins from head to toe, while others championed spectacular faux fur coats, corseted silhouettes, and reworked suiting. “GANGSTAAA – A Game on Your Own Rules” unfolded as a cinematic moment, fusing rap-inspired street culture with a polished, modern take on Old Hollywood glamour, and is set to continue in Paris with Episode 2 of the collection.

Color, craft, and conscious creation

On the colorful and upcycled side, Berlin’s eponymous brand IMPARI delivered a celebration of diversity, creativity, and a true love for colors and textures. Titled “PERMISSION ≠ SLIP,” the collection served as a reminder to fully step into one’s true colors and walk a personal path of desire, regardless of external approval. Blending performance elements with a striking runway, the show felt like bouncing from one soft cloud of pastel yet bold color and boundary-bending tailoring to another, rediscovering a piece of ourselves with each jump and garment.

Orange Culture continued the hue frenzy later during Berlin Fashion Week with “Backyards of Memory”. Presented at the M60 location, Adebayo Oke-Lawal showcased gender-fluid silhouettes defined by sculptural tailoring and a delicate intimacy visible in macramé and crochet dresses, hand-dyed fabrics, fringed knits, and pleated flares. Created in collaboration with African and diasporic artisans, the collection positioned fashion storytelling as both responsibility and craft.

Berlin-based brand MAQU also celebrated cultural diversity, anchored in European, and predominantly Nordic, minimalism. Opening Berlin Fashion Week’s STUDIO2RETAIL program, MAQU LAB staged an intimate presentation at the Peruanische Botschaft, showcasing innovative Peruvian cacao leather made from industry waste and woven into contemporary designs. MAQU stands for the future-facing luxury of quiet, sustainable fashion.

Sleek contemporary 

With clean, sleek designs that showcase true craftsmanship, William Fan transformed the KW Institute for Contemporary Art into a threshold between fashion and its audience. “RING THE BELL” marked a quietly confident new chapter, balancing velvet, corduroy, and brocade with technical and waxed fabrics and fluid pleating. Slim silhouettes met generous volumes, while modular down jackets and the new ZIP BAG added a pragmatic edge to the collection.

Set within staging inspired by imperial spectacles, the AW26 collection by SF1OG unfolded as a slow revelation. Victorian references appeared in sharply tailored jackets reminiscent of mourning dress silhouettes, layered with contemporary details. Fashion here functioned as quiet drama, provoking deep introspection into one’s identity.

Inspired by Marlene Dietrich, the unmistakably Berlin brand Haderlump presented a collection that moved fluidly between softness and strength. Delicate lace pieces and elegantly draped blazers were paired with bold leather jackets, waistcoats, and wool-heavy floor-length coats. The brand also embraced statement colors such as blue, green, and red, offering contrast to its otherwise muted palette.

GmbH delivered one of Berlin Fashion Week’s most emotionally charged presentations at the Palais am Funkturm. “Imitation of Life” unfolded in three acts, blending political reflection with poetic restraint in a ballroom-like setting. Delicate satin boxer shorts, sharp tailoring, crop tops paired with elegant trousers, and coats adorned with oversized bows moved between softness and structure. Embroidered phrases such as “Safe from harm,” “Mashallah,” and “Peace be upon you from what you patiently endured” embodied quiet resistance, reaffirming fashion as a platform for activism.

Experimental narratives 

After a ten-year hiatus from the Berlin Fashion Week stage, avant-garde designer Thomas Hanisch made a powerful return. His collection “EXOS” used the language of couture to tell a story of protection. Sculptural silhouettes, opulent volumes, and upcycled materials symbolized nature’s defense mechanisms while highlighting couture’s extravagant power and unapologetic self-expression.

Plaid-à-Porter, another STUDIO2RETAIL winner, transported audiences into a fairytale world of opera, couture, and the subtle elegance of music, art, and fashion. “Couture & Confessions” unfolded in an immersive presentation at the archaic Alte Hörsaalruine Charité, showcasing the brand’s emblematic upcycled Gobelin and lace pieces. Skilled actors dressed in the designs brought “Les Liaisons Dangereuses” to life through soprano and DJ elements. Our eyes were glazing over the details, with beautiful synchronicity in place.

Esther Perbandt’s “Zero Point” collection transformed the brand’s signature black into uniquely tailored garments that carried the designer’s essence throughout. It is remarkable how much a simple yet intricately constructed black garment can express. This time, it spoke of the unwavering vibration that persists, even in complete stillness.

On the final day, Der Berliner Salon summarized the core theme of Berlin Fashion Week AW26: identity. We spoke with designers and industry experts, including former Vogue Germany Editor-in-Chief Christiane Arp, who all confirmed Berlin’s unwavering creative power and commitment to self-expression, visible in an eclectic mix of designs that, despite their differences, spoke beautifully to one another.

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