A dark lighted place, bringing you into a completely different world compared to the lively Rosenthal Platz. It isn’t hard to imagine that Oukan was a former fashion concept store. Dimmed light hits the black setting making it look serious, thought through. The owner's love for Buddhism is mirrored in the concept of Oukan. However recently the vibe changed with a new cook and a new menu.
We met with Timur, the chef of Oukan. Listening to his backstory was intriguing, having worked all his life in film business before deciding to go into gastronomy. His love for Japanese and Mexican food marries well with the concept of Buddhism. It’s all about the love and attention you put into your food, he explains. That’s what he manifests with his creative interpretations of vegan food. Even though they say there’s nothing you can reinvent, he proves them wrong with unending search for the unseen, the help of their fermentation lab led by a former Noma employee and finally the outstanding reinterpretation of products. A great example is the second course called Kombujime Eringi, King oyster mushroom stamps fermented in seaweed, sliced very thin, resembling tagliatelle. He compares it to an almost scallop-like texture. Alongside a sauce and a habanero crumble. The whole menu is offered at a humble price; we were only wondering why they don’t have a star yet.
Hooked? So are we but it gets even better, they are about to open a cocktail bar with a funky interpretation of the restaurant. Challenging the search for the unseen once again but this time in a glass. Can’t wait to try it.
AckerstraĂźe 144, 10115 Berlin ( the entrance is a little red door in the backyard)
Cookies Cream, an appealing name with an even more appealing concept. A concert of beautiful design and beautiful people where a good atmosphere comes naturally. No wonder they kept their Michelin star for 7 years. We met with the owner and chef cook of Cookies Cream who shared with us the journey and the highs and lows of the restaurant. Heinz started off with a bar in his cellar that later turned into a popular club in the club scene of Berlin. After moving the club several times, he ended up settling down at FriedrichstraĂźe where he then opened Cookies Cream. The name Cream stands for the cream on top of the cookie, the cherry on top of the ice cream, the final touch of a good evening. That evening is led by a new concept of fine dining, without the traditional stiffness and with a new interpretation of a fine dining experience. Since Cookies Cream opened to a time where vegetarianism/veganism was only associated with bio shops and Birkenstock, Heinz pushed the concept to its limits and is today known as the pioneer of vegan fine dining in Berlin. With the arrival of chef Nicholas Hahn, a new era of the restaurant started, elevating the guests to a whole new idea of veganism. Being a carnivore, Nicholas brought a different kind of approach to the restaurant, turning important elements of the dish into an interpretation of meat yet far off with a much wider flavor palette and a better understanding of each component. A good example is pointed cabbage fermented and filled with koshihikari rice, cauliflower mushroom and a vegan beurre blanc, a dish inspired by chicken and rice. We can also recommend their alcohol-free pairing, with flavors much more defined than any standard pairing could be.
BehrenstraĂźe 55, 10117 Berlin (walk into the alley, go right, left and right)
Having already mentioned Bonvivant in previous articles, it becomes evident that it is a restaurant of great quality. Being completely vegetarian, the restaurant has, as many, gone a long way to where it is today. From day one Bonvivant has been vegetarian and only after having grown, veganism got welcomed into its concept. Originally the idea was to open a vegetarian restaurant that offers sharing plates but with high demand, Bonvivant decided to level up and today it is known for its exceptional menus and a unique cocktail pairing. The pairing offers a playful selection of great cocktails but also natural wines and even beers. When entering Bonvivant you get into a room full of life and color, yet sincere with professional service and well-behaved plates. The evening flows by with courses each more ordinary than the other. The vegan brioche really caught our eyes, since it kept its buttery, fluffy taste yet made by only vegan ingredients. Sauces that are deep in flavor and strong in color turn out to be purely vegan. Our favorite course was the celery, accompanied by burnt charcoal butter (never tasted anything alike), a wheatgrass cream and wild herbs. Nikodemus Berger, chef of Bonvivant, has found his own interpretation of today's veganism and leaves each client in awe of the arriving plate.
GoltzstraĂźe 32, 10781 Berlin
Vegan and no waste are a statement few can boldly approach to Berlin. Frea had immediate success with its concept, having opened six years ago and always being in high demand at all times, only highlighting how well it works. I talked to David, the owner of Frea, and to him it was always clear that when opening a restaurant, it’ll be vegan. However, excellent service and great quality is what he is known for, veganism is only secondary. If you haven’t eaten there yet, you most definitely know their bakery, also vegan and a go-to of every Berliner when around Rosenthaler Platz. It sells the best sourdough breads and French pastries, one better than the other. We shared great interest in the zero-waste aspect, since it's such an unspoken yet important topic and a huge challenge for any restaurant. David disagreed and explained how simple it can be with the right mindset. Every part of the product will be used if it's to be fermented, used in a dish or just to compliment the vegetable stock. A great example is their kohlrabi dish, where the steam of the kohlrabi has been roasted, coexisting with a rye bread miso paste, covered with pickled kohlrabi slices, seasoned with a kohlrabi oil along with borage and wild garlic and accompanied with a tigre de leche sauce, that has also been done with the leftover of the kohlrabi. Frea is mastering the idea of food to its fullest, making it a pioneer of sustainable gastronomy. In addition, the products are seasonal and from the region. The menu, currently the spring menu, is presented a la carte, where the customer can put together its own personal menu. A restaurant that inspires.
Kleine HamburgerstraĂźe 2, 10115 Berlin
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